surfboard

My Most Relaxing Place To Be - 222/365

My most relaxing place to be is on my surfboard out in the water. As I have stated before, time does not matter and the focus is on the here and now. It is a pure state of being in the moment. Rocking gently in the water up and down with the smaller swells and knowing that the larger ones that you will attempt will come in due time. No need to try and anticipate because you are not in control. The power of the ocean is incredible and you absolutely have no influence on it. You must be resigned and willing to surrender to the power. I find it very spiritual and relaxing to surrender completely in that way. If I had known that I would experience this the way I have I would have resumed my surfing way before getting to Cape Town. I am so glad I've been able to experience this again!

iphone-20141015110013-0.jpg

Surfboard Casualty - 172/365

I ran across this poor guy at one of the surf spots near my place called Hagaat. It's about four miles from my place on the way to Cape Town and has quite a hectic break. Evidently, he and his board ran into a large powerful wave. I never really saw this in Florida unless someone actually hit something like a rock or a reef. Here it's just the power of the waves. I've seen about four of these casualties recently. Wouldn't it be great to harness that power?

iphone-20140806153202-0.jpg